8c+

Adam Ondra Visits The Peak District

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Adam Ondra visits The Peak as part of the La Sportiva weekend. Onsighting Masters Edge, Balance It Is, The Knock and Messiah.

BD Athlete Nalle Hukkataival sends Gioia, Varazze, Italy

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Possibly the hardest boulder problem in the world, Gioia combines a long sequence of microscopic crimps with a heart-breaking finish. Drawn by the rumors, Nalle Hukkataival traveled to Varazze, Italy to try it.

Nalle makes it look like somewhere in the 6C or 6C+ range, but this is one of the very hardest problems in the world, meaning 8C or possibly 8C+. The grade of Gioia will be discussed for some time yet and further repeats are needed before it can settle, but like Nalle says: Let's remember that Gioia means Joy.

Ola Taistra | Mind Control 8c (c+)

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Aleksandra Taistra on Mind Control - route in Oliana, Spain.
Video by : Micha? Le?niewski

Alizee Dufraisse Sends Coma Sant Pere (8c+)

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"Coma Sant Pere is a 50 meter route in a big wall close to Era Bella in Margalef. There are 3 sections with long moves. The first one is a boulder with a jump and the others are more resistance". ~Alizee Dufraisse, prAna Ambassador

ADAM ONDRA 2 V16s

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Adam Ondra climbs two of the world's hardest boulder problems, suggesting V16 / 8C+ for both. First, Terranova, an extremely funky traverse at his home area near Brno, Czech Republic. Then Gioia, a problem in Varazze, Italy put up by Christian Core in 2008 and only repeated by Adam. Music by Abel Okugawa, Gramatik, The Gaucho and the Gremlin, and Talvihorros. http://reelrocktour.com/

He climbed two 8c+ / V16 boulders recently : Terranova, near Brno (Czech Republic), and Gioia, in Varazze (Italy).

Stolen sun 8с+/9а, first ascent

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July 24, Shaferov Sergei made the first ascent of perhaps the most complex projects in the CIS. The route is located in the south of Russia, Krasnodar region, climbing area Guamka, sector Solaris.

Adam Ondra onsights The Golden Ticket (5.14c), Red River Gorge, Kentucky

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Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra traveled to Kentucky's Red River Gorge in late October and 10 days later he had blazed through the area's hardest routes, including onsighting two of the Red's hardest, Pure Imagination and The Golden Ticket, in the same day. Both routes were originally rated 5.14d, but Ondra, after onsighting them within an hour of each other, suggested they be downrated to 5.14c.

The Eye of Odin (8c+) first ascent on Vimeo

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Dani, Magnus and I sessioned on this incredible route for two days, competing for 15,000 norwegian kroner for the first ascent.

Dani and Magnus obviously climbed the route with style and grace, while I climbed with wild desperation... but it worked. I don't think I've ever topped out a route after becoming so terminally pumped on it.

Aliz?e Dufraisse: La Reina Mora 8c+/9a (First Female Ascent)

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Aliz?e Dufraisse, who climbed her first 8c+, Pati noso, not long ago, has now pushed it half a notch further by doing La Reina Mora, 8c+/9a, at Siurana. The route is in the same sector, El Pati, as Pati noso, so it would seem this wall suits her quite well! This was of course the first female ascent. There has, after all, not been that many female ascents at this level. So few in fact that you can count the number of women who have climbed anything harder than 8c+ on one hand, even if you were to have lost a digit (or maybe even two).

Bouldering: Adam Ondra Gioia 8C+

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A couple of days ago, young Czech climber Adam Ondra made the second ascent of Christian Core's ultra hard boulder problem Gioia at Varazze in northern Italy. Gioia is graded a huge Font 8C+.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=65426

"Finishing off Gioia the last possible chance of the year is a kind of fairy-tale story which couldn't be more thrilling and emotional.

The victory tastes even better in that sense and the name the Gioia (Joy) couldn't have been chosen better.

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